Cone 6

Wow my small electric kiln takes a long time to reach cone 6. I'd been doing cone 1 for a while now which is about the top end of lowfire. Cone 1 makes vitreous durable pots out of low fire white clay. However the clay has a sticky feel and is not as nice to throw as cone 6 porcelain or stoneware. Besides I've got some great cone 6 recipes to go with some really great cone 6 clays that I enjoy working with. I'll continue to do cone 1 because it's fun and cheap.

I have a bunch of cone 6 porcelain that I really didn't like so I wedged in some mulcoa 47 grog 35 mesh, which stopped all the finicky problems that high spar content clays have. With about 10% added grog to the wet weight, the porcelain takes on a whole new personality. It retains it's plasticity, and gains structural integrity, and fast drying capabilities. This clay went from S cracking while drying unless you kept it under plastic for days and flipped it on the rim while it was still quite wet, to being able to throw plates and leave them until the rim and inside is leather hard, flipping and trimming the majority of the foot while wet, then coming back and finishing off the last bit once it's leather hard. Never being covered in plastic and drying in the kiln room at about 85 degrees of dry hot air in the room. I love porcelain, but the forgiving nature of a clay with grog is just so much more satisfying. With a full schedule of classes I need a forgiving clay that will wait if I want it to, but can dry quickly if I want it to as well.

I've also been making some "Patrick Horsley pots" which is really my take on his techniques. I've really been enjoying the method which has opened a whole new design element to my work that was not possible before I took his workshop. I've taken to making these figurative jars that are flattened to an oval and have a wider shoulders and body with narrower bottom half and narrow neck. I find them fun to make as well as aesthetically pleasing. The porcelain with grog has been an effective clay in making these pots.

Research

I'm a big fan of ceramics books. The one drawback of my book library is that a lot of it is dated material in classic ceramic books. One such thing I found was Jack Troy's book Salt Glazed Ceramics. The book covers how to make salt glazed ware, and salt kilns. In his book he used Portland Cement because the newer alumina refractory cements weren't available when he wrote the book. Toward the end he discusses the ongoing research in castables which he discusses adding alumina to the cement in ratios. Well I did a lot of reading and found many articles talking about castables and several covered this in detail claiming that adding alumina oxide or alumina hydrate to a cement would not work.

I did a lot of reading on castables and refractories. I read research papers books, blogs, discussion boards, websites, technical data sheets etc. All of this research led me to a basic formula for a medium to light castable cement which was mentioned in my last blog consisting of, 2 parts fire clay, 2 parts grog, 2 parts saw dust, 1 part cement. For this recipe I chose to use Ciment Fondu because of the fairly reasonable price of $44.00/bag-94lbs.

We used this product in my mom's backyard oven. I have some concerns about the oven because the castable will shrink considerably and my parents decor design has a flaw. They wanted to use bricks on the outside and we'd already decided to use a castable cement. Well the cement is going to shrink some when I fire the oven off the first time, and the bricks will not shrink. This means that the interior will shrink away from the bricks and there will be a gap. This would not be a problem except we used a sprung arch design in the top of the oven for maximization of space. As it shrinks it can become unsupported and crack, or even fail. I'm going to strap the thing together with steel support braces prior to firing, but who knows if it will work or not... The one thing I could not find (and did not test because of time constraints) is the shrinkage of this castable upon firing. I guess I should hurry up and fire off the blocks I've made.

Long time no blog

It's been a while since I've blogged because I've been fishing a lot and not making pots so much. I do however have the studio in place pretty much. At least enough that I can wedge clay and make pots. So I'm doing that and awaiting the cash flow to complete the kiln project. I'm only short a few hundred bucks, but it's amazing how much a few hundred bucks is when you don't have it to spare.

The great thing is I've been able to get my feet wet with castable cement in the building of a backyard cook center for my mom. We've built a catenary arch kiln style oven with a small arched firebox in the bottom and a level cook top in the oven chamber. I'm pretty excited to finish the piece off this weekend. I'm going over there to build the final frames for the big catenary arch which is going to be the top, sides and back of the oven. 

To build this thing we've used lincoln 60 fireclay, pine shavings, fine and course mulcoa grog, and Ciment Fondu which is a 40% alumina refractory cement. This was used in a 2,2,2,1 parts formula. 

2 Fireclay

2 Pine Shavings

2 Grog

1 Ciment Fondu

We had to substitute some sand to complete the cook top because we were running out of aggregates at the time. We also had to substitute some Portland Type II cement into the cook top because we ran out of Ciment Fondu. So the top of the firebox itself has about 2 inches of good refractory cement, and the top of the firebox layer or cooktop has about 2 inches of Portland Cement. For this application it should be just fine, although I did have the idea that I would burn this thing to red/orange one time to cure it and I don't see that happening with Portland Cement. We'll see how it goes, but I certainly don't want to push the cook top the the point that it fails.

The tall arch we're about to build is going to be a 2" layer of medium density castable just like the firebox pieces were, followed by a 3 inch layer of light castable made with perlite. In the big arch we're going to put holes which will later hold spring mounted bolts for a flange which will hold the doors. There will be two doors on the oven one small one down below for the firebox and one up top for the oven which will be quite large.

Keep it Moving

It's been a period of constant transition for the last year. I've been unable to set up shop for very long because we keep having to up and move. I'd planned this time to stay here for at least a year, but here we are again in a position where we need to move. The current living arrangement has failed to work as intended and I have to give up my two car garage, my huge office and my new garden space that's full of vegetable plants. I'm really bummed out!

So we're looking at places somewhere outside Vancouver. A couple look promising, but no concrete plans as of yet. One little place on an acre in Orchards is particularly interesting, but it has no garage or basement. I could build a cheap out building made of Plastic and cattle panel for a greenhouse and a shop.

The good news is, I have done the research and can now build a large castable kiln for a few hundred bucks. I'll be building the arch frames and ramming my mom's oven by the end of the month.

The bad news is the move is going to cost me all my student loan money and I'll likely lose all my vegetable crops when I go.

Redware

So here I am with 300 lbs of porcelain, and I'm itching to make replica Pennsylvania Redware. The bright red clay with white slip trails covered in a bright amber glaze have me mesmerized into buying a couple boxes of red clay in Tacoma this weekend when I'm up there. The question is will I have the money for the 10 other things I'll end up buying when I go?

http://www.ceramicartdaily.net/booksales/Electric_Wilz-3.pdf

Oven

So I've been testing some castable recipes for my mom's Earthen Oven we've been prepping to build in her back yard. I dug through some old posts on the old clayartcenter.net forum and found several referring to a 4,4,4,1 recipe. My tests are as follows.

#1
4 Fireclay
4 Grog
4 Charcoal (Crushed)
1 White Cement

#2

4 Fireclay

4 Grog

4 Charcoal (Crushed)

1 White Cement

1 Talc

#3

4 Fireclay

4 Grog

4 Charcoal (Crushed)

1 White Cement

4 Pearlite

The original recipe called for grog ranging from dust to 4mm particles and sawdust ranging from dust to 3/8". I can get grog that size, but I had a difficult time finding combustible materials that size range. I can get dust and I can get chips, that's pretty much it. So I figured if I crushed up some of this Mesquite Natural Log style charcoal, I'd get the size range. It worked but I gotta tell ya, crushing much of anything by hand with a 8lb hammer isn't the most fun I've had. 

The Talconic Castable is really close to the original, but I was aiming to have a slightly better heat dispersion. I was also thinking it would cure at a slightly lower temperature. We'll see how it performs through the test I made. It's just a slop brick form, but it's got an arch built into the bottom so I can measure any sagging or warping that might occur. I believe this is only about 7.2% talc by weight, so it shouldn't cause too much of a problem.

My concern is the white cement I purchased. The spec sheets for the material claims it boils at about 1000C. Does this mean the castable will begin to mature near Cone 06? While I realize her oven won't get to that temperature after the initial firing to cure, I'm wondering how these guys are using white cement in Cone 10 castable kilns? Or are they using a different Cement? All the research I've done says they use white cement for earthen ovens. One post I found the guy claimed to have used a recipe from Jack Troy's book published in 1977 called Salt Glazed Ceramics. In that kiln he claims to have used white cement, and fired with salt for 10 years before the arch failed. That doesn't say how many firings. He could have only done 10 firings for all I know. I just purchased the book from Powells Books to take a look. When I do build a castable kiln, or castable slab floor (which I'm doing in the kiln I'm building now) I expect it to hold up for 100 firings or more.

Stay tuned for the results.

Mid-range Porcelain

A while back I decided to buy a box of pretty much every kind of Cone 5 - 7 Porcelain I could get my hands on. There were a few I couldn't get at the time, but I have like 8 different kinds that were in stock. I finally was able to drag my wheel out and get to work.

The first box I grabbed was OH - 6 made up in Tacoma at Clay Art Center. It's got good throwing capabilities, as I thew a 10" cylinder with ease right off the bat. It promptly broke down when I expanded the cylinder. I can't fault the clay too much it is porcelain after all and I was abusing it like a stoneware with grog, trying to push it to failure. 

I did make another pot, and it cracked upon drying. I got a ring crack on the bottom of the pot, which tells me that it dried too long on the bat prior to trimming. I probably need to slow the drying a bit as well, or be more attentive. I could trim quite a bit wetter. I waited until the pot was easy to trim. It had been sitting on the bat it was thrown on for about an entire day. I could probably have flipped it after 6 or 8 hours and then trimmed it between 8 and 12 hours. My garage is drafty but cool because of the big cement slab being directly on the ground. There is also an apartment built above the garage that provides protection from the sun, so it stays cool if it stays shut.

I'll have to give it a few more tests, but I still have many clays to go, so if this one proves to be too picky I've got some 35 mesh Mulcoa with it's name on it. It'll behave, one way or the other.